After we had come down from Barron saddle we had heard that a guy had taken a bad fall on Mt Cook and was very lucky to be alive. As soon as we had reception again Mike's mobile went crazy from his friends who were making sure it wasn't him.
Originally I was planning to go paddling with my flatmate Sam after the course - and some of his paddling friends from Brisbane were over here at the same time and it seemed convenient to join up with them. Some of the same guys are also into mountaineering and it turns out that the guy who fell was Sam's friend and we could have joined up had thing worked out differently. Puts a different spin on things.
What a small world.
Tuesday, January 31, 2006
Monday, January 30, 2006
city bum
Well I have found that there is much more to Christchurch, now that I have taken a bit of time to get to know the city instead of rushing around bleeding cash. I managed to catch the final night of the Buskers Festival and have realised how much more I need to practice juggling.
There is a fair bit to see and do here so I have decided to hang out here for a couple days and meet up with Mike and Cynth here instead of Franz Joseph. A couple of days R&R can't hurt and it will save me a few days car hire.
There is a fair bit to see and do here so I have decided to hang out here for a couple days and meet up with Mike and Cynth here instead of Franz Joseph. A couple of days R&R can't hurt and it will save me a few days car hire.
Saturday, January 28, 2006
TMC + Barron Saddle and beyond
All righty. I finally have a bit of spare time and happen to be near civilization so I guess I better make contact again!This is going to be a long one so get the pop corn ready...
The course was amazing. The technical aspects of the course weren't that hard - I knew most of it anyway from either climbing or the brief study I did before I went over. But what I learnt on the course that was really valuable was all the environmental stuff - how to predict the weather, learning about different snow types and the snow pack, learning where avalanches happen and why etc. The course had mixed weather; almost good day, bad day, good day etc for 10 days. We made the most of everyday climbing peaks when the weather was good and theory on the bad (and lot of chin-ups and other silly self imposed physical challenges). Ten days seems like a longs time up in the hills.
At the end we did a bit of rock climbing at the local crag and then I joined up with to people from the course, Mike and Cynthia who I have been traveling with since then. We checked out all the local bouldering and climbing before Johnny from Adelaide also joined us and we headed into the hills yet again.
This time we did it all ourselves and didn't have air support to save our legs. We didn't actually weigh our packs out of fear but with six days food (all fresh - no dehydro for us!) all the usual walking stuff plus ropes, axes, hammers, snow stakes and other random gear I reckon we were each easily 25+ kg.
Our plan was to head to a small less frequented hut called Barron Saddle hut. Sam, one of the guides from our course, had recommended it as a first trip and the guide book said it was a 7 hour walk-in so it seemed ideal. There were a couple grade 1-2 peaks nearby to cut our teeth on.
The route would take us up 1200m past Mueller hut. By the time we got there we were an hour over which wasn't bad but we were feeling pretty lazy so we decided to stay there the night - it is a popular large hut so we had some last night comforts. We figured we only had another 4 hours left which we could stretch into a day if we were slow or climbed any peaks on the way. Mueller hut has incredible views over the Mueller glacier which is joined by the Hooker glacier from the north.
The next day we got of early and found the first few kms of scree hard moving and had used up 4 hours before we had even got to the snow on the Annette Plateau. Not really phased we put on our crampons and headed over the first ice field towards Sladden saddle which is itself a grade 1 climb. I happened to be on the front of the rope from the glacier travel (you usually walk roped up incase a crevasse decides to eat you) so I and Mike, who was on the tail, alternated the leading up the steep snow to Sladden saddle. From here we enjoyed some great views down into the Metelille Glacier which we were about to cross. On the other side of the glacier was Mount Darby which we could cross over or around via an 'obvious rock shelf 250 m above the Mueller glacier' according to the guide. By this stage there was a bit of low lying cloud moving across and it would be white out in the high route shortly so we decided to go the low route. So we tramped on down past beautiful deep blue icefields on snow littered with rock like a moon scape. Soon we found some semblance of a shelf and negotiated some increasingly difficult scree and rock (all with our heavy packs) before slowly coming to the realisation that we weren't going to make the ridge on Darby, let alone the hut on the other side by night fall. Large cliffs emphasised by long waterfalls blocked our way. In fact by the time we had back tracked onto the Glacier again it was 10pm. We had already been moving over hard terrain for 14 hours without lunch (...we will have lunch at the hut...) and we were only about two thirds of the way.
Apart from the light cloud over Darby we had enjoyed excellent weather and because we are so far south the summer nights are still bright until quite late. We debated as to wether we should make some tea and then push on or wether we should bivy in the snow. Everyone was a bit freaked out. I remember waatching the sun set on Mt Cook on the other side of the Hooker Glacier and thinking that it was both beautiful at the same time and reminding me how remote we were.
By the time we a had cooked up a meal the decision had made itself. We were tired, cold from waiting for the food to cook, and uncertain about how to cross Dary via the high route. We would bivy out.
On the course Mike, Chook and me had built a cave and we had shovelled hard in turns for three hours to finish at midnight only to have a cold wet night of poor sleep. At least we knew how to build one well. But this time we didn't have a convenient array of different shovels for the different stages. In fact we didn't have a shovel at all, just ice axes which makes for slow work.
The air wasn't too cold and the breeze was light so we opted for a simple platform in the snow rather than a full snow cave which takes hours to make and isn't real comfy. But after making our nest as best we could we all had one of the best nights sleep we could remember!
The next days after a big breaky we headed of, climbing the side of the glacier and heading onto the side of Darby. The rock was easy moving but very exposesed so we needed to rope up for a couple sections. Rather than leave gear behind I went last and downclimbed the ridge. From here it was a zigzag route through a steep crevased section of the next glacier before a few sections of scree and snow before the hut which we could see in the distance. Spurred on we ran or glacaded down a lot of the ice and then marched up the last snow slope to find Barron Saddle hut.
A party of 4 had just arrived and had some herbal tea waiting for us (good mountain ettiquette) and we then proceeded to recover and relax for the next day. After reading through the hut log book we found many funny similar stories to our own. It wasn't us after all!
So after spending fours days already we figured it was time to leave and we had ony just got there! Our plans of climbing Sealy of the Scissors would have to wait for another time. The next days we headed down the Mueller glacier which is a much easier route and the other party had come up that way. It was a beautiful walk out over deep corrugated blue ice, then rough morraine and finally steep scree, all the while pausing every half hour or so the spot the thunderous avalaches on the other side of the valley.
Finally after a few false starts the scree gave away to alpine plants and cleaner rock and we were back at Mueller hut mid arvo. We refilled water (there is no accessable ice on the lower two thirds of the glacier), changed socks and decided to push on. We walked all the way back to Mt Cook village in 9 hours what had taken us three days to attain!
Next we relaxed, wined, dined, and moved to Wanaka for some more relaxed rock climbing at a gorgeous little crag over a twisted little canyon. I think we spent more time swimming that climbing but we ate very well (and by that I mean lots of chocolate, sugar and chutney - one of our new favourite hut foods).
Then we spent the night in Wanaka after, said goodbye to Johnny and headed to Queenstown where I am now. Mike and Cynth have just headed on to Te Anau where they will do some kayaking on Milford and then head to Dunedin and then Franz Joseph Glacier with another friend. I will make my way back to Christchurch hire a car and meet them again and hopefully get some ice climbing action before I fly out.
Almost every day in NZ I have recalled something that only happened ages ago and realised it happened only the day before. Time flies when you have fun but there is so much more time!
The course was amazing. The technical aspects of the course weren't that hard - I knew most of it anyway from either climbing or the brief study I did before I went over. But what I learnt on the course that was really valuable was all the environmental stuff - how to predict the weather, learning about different snow types and the snow pack, learning where avalanches happen and why etc. The course had mixed weather; almost good day, bad day, good day etc for 10 days. We made the most of everyday climbing peaks when the weather was good and theory on the bad (and lot of chin-ups and other silly self imposed physical challenges). Ten days seems like a longs time up in the hills.
At the end we did a bit of rock climbing at the local crag and then I joined up with to people from the course, Mike and Cynthia who I have been traveling with since then. We checked out all the local bouldering and climbing before Johnny from Adelaide also joined us and we headed into the hills yet again.
This time we did it all ourselves and didn't have air support to save our legs. We didn't actually weigh our packs out of fear but with six days food (all fresh - no dehydro for us!) all the usual walking stuff plus ropes, axes, hammers, snow stakes and other random gear I reckon we were each easily 25+ kg.
Our plan was to head to a small less frequented hut called Barron Saddle hut. Sam, one of the guides from our course, had recommended it as a first trip and the guide book said it was a 7 hour walk-in so it seemed ideal. There were a couple grade 1-2 peaks nearby to cut our teeth on.
The route would take us up 1200m past Mueller hut. By the time we got there we were an hour over which wasn't bad but we were feeling pretty lazy so we decided to stay there the night - it is a popular large hut so we had some last night comforts. We figured we only had another 4 hours left which we could stretch into a day if we were slow or climbed any peaks on the way. Mueller hut has incredible views over the Mueller glacier which is joined by the Hooker glacier from the north.
The next day we got of early and found the first few kms of scree hard moving and had used up 4 hours before we had even got to the snow on the Annette Plateau. Not really phased we put on our crampons and headed over the first ice field towards Sladden saddle which is itself a grade 1 climb. I happened to be on the front of the rope from the glacier travel (you usually walk roped up incase a crevasse decides to eat you) so I and Mike, who was on the tail, alternated the leading up the steep snow to Sladden saddle. From here we enjoyed some great views down into the Metelille Glacier which we were about to cross. On the other side of the glacier was Mount Darby which we could cross over or around via an 'obvious rock shelf 250 m above the Mueller glacier' according to the guide. By this stage there was a bit of low lying cloud moving across and it would be white out in the high route shortly so we decided to go the low route. So we tramped on down past beautiful deep blue icefields on snow littered with rock like a moon scape. Soon we found some semblance of a shelf and negotiated some increasingly difficult scree and rock (all with our heavy packs) before slowly coming to the realisation that we weren't going to make the ridge on Darby, let alone the hut on the other side by night fall. Large cliffs emphasised by long waterfalls blocked our way. In fact by the time we had back tracked onto the Glacier again it was 10pm. We had already been moving over hard terrain for 14 hours without lunch (...we will have lunch at the hut...) and we were only about two thirds of the way.
Apart from the light cloud over Darby we had enjoyed excellent weather and because we are so far south the summer nights are still bright until quite late. We debated as to wether we should make some tea and then push on or wether we should bivy in the snow. Everyone was a bit freaked out. I remember waatching the sun set on Mt Cook on the other side of the Hooker Glacier and thinking that it was both beautiful at the same time and reminding me how remote we were.
By the time we a had cooked up a meal the decision had made itself. We were tired, cold from waiting for the food to cook, and uncertain about how to cross Dary via the high route. We would bivy out.
On the course Mike, Chook and me had built a cave and we had shovelled hard in turns for three hours to finish at midnight only to have a cold wet night of poor sleep. At least we knew how to build one well. But this time we didn't have a convenient array of different shovels for the different stages. In fact we didn't have a shovel at all, just ice axes which makes for slow work.
The air wasn't too cold and the breeze was light so we opted for a simple platform in the snow rather than a full snow cave which takes hours to make and isn't real comfy. But after making our nest as best we could we all had one of the best nights sleep we could remember!
The next days after a big breaky we headed of, climbing the side of the glacier and heading onto the side of Darby. The rock was easy moving but very exposesed so we needed to rope up for a couple sections. Rather than leave gear behind I went last and downclimbed the ridge. From here it was a zigzag route through a steep crevased section of the next glacier before a few sections of scree and snow before the hut which we could see in the distance. Spurred on we ran or glacaded down a lot of the ice and then marched up the last snow slope to find Barron Saddle hut.
A party of 4 had just arrived and had some herbal tea waiting for us (good mountain ettiquette) and we then proceeded to recover and relax for the next day. After reading through the hut log book we found many funny similar stories to our own. It wasn't us after all!
So after spending fours days already we figured it was time to leave and we had ony just got there! Our plans of climbing Sealy of the Scissors would have to wait for another time. The next days we headed down the Mueller glacier which is a much easier route and the other party had come up that way. It was a beautiful walk out over deep corrugated blue ice, then rough morraine and finally steep scree, all the while pausing every half hour or so the spot the thunderous avalaches on the other side of the valley.
Finally after a few false starts the scree gave away to alpine plants and cleaner rock and we were back at Mueller hut mid arvo. We refilled water (there is no accessable ice on the lower two thirds of the glacier), changed socks and decided to push on. We walked all the way back to Mt Cook village in 9 hours what had taken us three days to attain!
Next we relaxed, wined, dined, and moved to Wanaka for some more relaxed rock climbing at a gorgeous little crag over a twisted little canyon. I think we spent more time swimming that climbing but we ate very well (and by that I mean lots of chocolate, sugar and chutney - one of our new favourite hut foods).
Then we spent the night in Wanaka after, said goodbye to Johnny and headed to Queenstown where I am now. Mike and Cynth have just headed on to Te Anau where they will do some kayaking on Milford and then head to Dunedin and then Franz Joseph Glacier with another friend. I will make my way back to Christchurch hire a car and meet them again and hopefully get some ice climbing action before I fly out.
Almost every day in NZ I have recalled something that only happened ages ago and realised it happened only the day before. Time flies when you have fun but there is so much more time!
Wednesday, January 18, 2006
Still alive and kicking!
Well I made it out alive! What a fantastic trip! I will post a few more details when I have a bit more time - I just finished the trip a few hours ago and have joined up with some of the other people from the course. We will have a rest day and then head back into the hills for some more action.
A brief summary of the trip is heaps of rope skills, snow and ice climbing, sleeping in a snow cave that we dug, navigation, weather forecasting and a bit of rock climbing at the end.
Anyway my expensive internet cafe is chewing my laundery money which I definetely need after 10 days without showering!
A brief summary of the trip is heaps of rope skills, snow and ice climbing, sleeping in a snow cave that we dug, navigation, weather forecasting and a bit of rock climbing at the end.
Anyway my expensive internet cafe is chewing my laundery money which I definetely need after 10 days without showering!
Sunday, January 08, 2006
High, Wet and getting broker by the minute
Doing this mountaineering course is probably the most expensive thing I have ever done. Every little thing I need seems to be another few hundred bucks and I can't really skimp on much of it. I am even thinking about buying a new pack just to help fit all of this new gear! I have probably burn about a grand in the outdoor shops over the last two days and man has it been fun!
But finally I figured I had organised everything I needed and did a bit more of the touristy stuff around Christchurch. This included riding the Trams around, visiting the aquarium which houses some kiwi, and then riding the Gondola up to the hills for a view over the city. Pretty nice up there and I was glad to get away from the city for a while. But then I'll probably be glad to get back to the city after a few fortnight in the mountains.
NZ is pretty easy to get around in as everything si so similar to home but I do love some of the little differences - like shopping trundlers instead of trolleys. I have also been practicing saying swapping my i's and e's (eg: I can si sex hids on thes bus) to blend in like a kiwi.
Anyway the YHA in Mt Cook was booked out so I am starting my course straight after I get of the bus. This gave me a free day so I went white water rafting on the Rangitata River south west of Christchurch. I was originally intending to meet up with my flat mate Sam after the course and go kayaking for a few weeks. But he bailed and I think the getting both climbing and kayaking gear across would have been a bit of a challenge. Anyway I had never been rafting so this was heaps of fun. Whitewater rapids seem so much easier in a big rubber boat! Also did a 10m water jump at the end.
See more:
http://www.rafts.co.nz/index.cfm/River_Trip
So thats it for now. Tommorow I head of for the real highlight at Mt Cook and I won't be in contact until the 19th! Then I will pick up a hire car and who knows what I will be doing. I will probably start by heading over arthur's pass and heading up to the north. I hear there is some good climbing in Nelson. We shall see.
But finally I figured I had organised everything I needed and did a bit more of the touristy stuff around Christchurch. This included riding the Trams around, visiting the aquarium which houses some kiwi, and then riding the Gondola up to the hills for a view over the city. Pretty nice up there and I was glad to get away from the city for a while. But then I'll probably be glad to get back to the city after a few fortnight in the mountains.
NZ is pretty easy to get around in as everything si so similar to home but I do love some of the little differences - like shopping trundlers instead of trolleys. I have also been practicing saying swapping my i's and e's (eg: I can si sex hids on thes bus) to blend in like a kiwi.
Anyway the YHA in Mt Cook was booked out so I am starting my course straight after I get of the bus. This gave me a free day so I went white water rafting on the Rangitata River south west of Christchurch. I was originally intending to meet up with my flat mate Sam after the course and go kayaking for a few weeks. But he bailed and I think the getting both climbing and kayaking gear across would have been a bit of a challenge. Anyway I had never been rafting so this was heaps of fun. Whitewater rapids seem so much easier in a big rubber boat! Also did a 10m water jump at the end.
See more:
http://www.rafts.co.nz/index.cfm/River_Trip
So thats it for now. Tommorow I head of for the real highlight at Mt Cook and I won't be in contact until the 19th! Then I will pick up a hire car and who knows what I will be doing. I will probably start by heading over arthur's pass and heading up to the north. I hear there is some good climbing in Nelson. We shall see.
Friday, January 06, 2006
Christ church
Well I am in Christchurch! Haven't really done much except spend money. Arrived late last night and basically crept into my dark room full of snoring fellow backpackers and slept in my clothes.
I was pretty lucky at the air port - I miss read my time but I was 2 hours early not late so it was all right. Got in a bit of relaxed reading time.
I have sorted out basically all of my gear except ski goggles now: bought some full monty style snow pants (you can take unzip the sides and pull them off the front), heavy duty gloves with detachable inner.
Now I am stocked up with food and am off to relax a bit and finish my book (Stephen hawkins: A brief history of time - awesome read; have learnt a bit!). Maybe tommorow I will bludge a bit before heading off to Mt Cook. Was thinking of maybe doing a whitewater raft trip but I still have a few things to get and I leave early on the 8th so I don't have much free time yet. After the course I will probably hire a car and zip around a bit more.
Christ church is a pretty nice place and I will probably spend a few days here doing more sight seeing at the end of my trip.
Until next time!
I was pretty lucky at the air port - I miss read my time but I was 2 hours early not late so it was all right. Got in a bit of relaxed reading time.
I have sorted out basically all of my gear except ski goggles now: bought some full monty style snow pants (you can take unzip the sides and pull them off the front), heavy duty gloves with detachable inner.
Now I am stocked up with food and am off to relax a bit and finish my book (Stephen hawkins: A brief history of time - awesome read; have learnt a bit!). Maybe tommorow I will bludge a bit before heading off to Mt Cook. Was thinking of maybe doing a whitewater raft trip but I still have a few things to get and I leave early on the 8th so I don't have much free time yet. After the course I will probably hire a car and zip around a bit more.
Christ church is a pretty nice place and I will probably spend a few days here doing more sight seeing at the end of my trip.
Until next time!
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